How one woman followed her instincts into the wild north
By Alex Reynolds
The first time I came to Pakistan’s Ishkoman Valley, in 2019, I was riding a borrowed 150cc motorcycle in socks, sandals, and leggings riddled with holes. It was my first time biking in the mountains—badly, I should add. My cheap plastic helmet was my only protection from the rain and my reckless driving. Everything I owned—one ratty backpack and one overweight camera bag—was bungeed behind me, coated in a thick layer of mountain dust. Read More